Cause 1

Heating Element Assembly

Sometimes, if the heating element fails, it shorts out against the heater housing, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the heating element assembly is shorted out, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element assembly has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element assembly is shorted out, replace it.

Cause 2

Heating Element

Sometimes, if the heating element fails, it shorts out against the heater housing, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.

Cause 3

The Circuit Breaker is Weak

Over time, circuit breakers can weaken. If the circuit breaker is weak, it may trip too often, even if the amperage draw is below the limit. If you have already checked all of the potentially defective dryer components, consider having an electrician replace the circuit breaker.

Cause 1

Drum Support Roller & Axle

Oe or more of the drum roller axles might be worn out. Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the drum roller axles are worn out, the rollers may not spin freely, causing the motor to overload and the dryer to stop. To determine if the drum roller axles are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the axles for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, the axles do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.

Cause 2

Drum Roller

One or more of the drum rollers might be worn out. Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the rollers don’t spin freely, the motor will get overloaded and the dryer will stop. If the drum rollers are worn out, the rollers may not spin freely. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If one or more of the rollers don’t turn freely, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The roller shaft can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.)

Cause 3

Drive Belt

The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley. Over time, the belt can break from normal use. If the belt is broken, the dryer won’t turn. To quickly determine if the belt is broken, reach into the dryer and turn the drum by hand. If the drum spins very easily, the belt is likely broken. Next, inspect the belt to confirm that it is broken. If the belt is broken, replace it.

Cause 1

Drum Roller Axle

One or more of the drum roller axles might be worn out. Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. Over time, the drum rollers and axles wear out, causing the dryer to make a loud rumbling noise. To determine if the drum roller axles are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, the axles do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.

Cause 2

Drum Roller

One or more of the drum rollers might be worn out. Many dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. When the drum rollers are worn out, they can cause the dryer to make a loud rumbling noise. To determine if the rollers are worn out, inspect the rollers. If one or more of the rollers are severely worn, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The roller shaft can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.)

Cause 3

Drive Belt

The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor. Over time, the drive belt can become frayed or otherwise damaged. If the drive belt is frayed or damaged, the dryer will be noisy as it turns. Inspect the drive belt for signs of wear. If the drive belt is worn, replace it.

Cause 1

Door Switch

The door switch activates when the dryer door is closed. On most dryers, the door switch makes an audible clicking sound when it activates. To determine if the door switch is working, try starting your dryer and then listen for the “click.” If the door switch makes a clicking sound, it is probably not defective. If you don’t hear a click, use a multimeter to use the door switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 2

Start Switch

To determine if the start switch is defective, attempt to start the dryer. If the dryer hums but does not start, the start switch is not at fault. If the dryer does not respond or make any noise, the start switch could be at fault. Use a multimeter to test the start switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 3

Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.

Cause 1

Igniter

The igniter uses heat to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter is not working, the gas will not ignite, preventing the dryer from heating. To determine if the igniter has burned out, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.

Cause 2

Gas Valve Solenoid

Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a gas valve solenoid fails, the dryer won’t heat. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.

Cause 3

Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multimeter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.

Cause 1

Drum Roller Axle

Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. Over time, the drum roller axles can wear out, causing the rollers to bind. If the rollers are worn out or start binding, the motor will get overloaded and the dryer won’t turn. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, they do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.

Cause 2

Drum Roller

Most dryers have two drum rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the drum rollers are worn out, the dryer won’t turn properly. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If one or more of the rollers are worn out, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The roller shaft can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.)

Cause 3

Drive Belt

The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley. Over time, the belt can break from normal use. If the belt is broken, the dryer won’t turn. To quickly determine if the belt is broken, reach into the dryer and turn the drum by hand. If the drum spins very easily, the belt is likely broken. Next, inspect the belt to confirm that it is broken. If the belt is broken, replace it.

Cause 1

Gas Valve Solenoid

Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a solenoid fails, the burner may run intermittently. If the burner keeps shutting off, the dryer won’t heat properly and may not stop. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.

Cause 2

Blower Wheel

The blower wheel draws air through the dryer and pushes the air out the vent. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If the blower wheel is obstructed or defective, it may take too long to dry clothes. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.

Cause 3

Air Flow Problem

If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.

Cause 1

Gas Valve Solenoid

Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. Sometimes, a solenoid can fail several minutes into the drying cycle, causing the dryer to take a long time to dry the clothes. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.

Cause 2

Blower Wheel

The blower wheel works with the drive motor to draw air into the dryer drum. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If the blower wheel is obstructed or defective, it may take too long to dry clothes. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.

Cause 3

Air Flow Problem

If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.

Cause 1

Air Flow Problem

If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.

Cause 2

Heating Element Assembly

The heating element warms air as it passes over the element. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, first use a multimeter to test the heating element for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it. Next, test for continuity from each terminal to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.

Cause 3

Heating Element

The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.